A flourmill, a restaurant… tradition and innovation in the heart Trentino
A young cook and lots of desire to get in the game.
Alessandro Gilmozzi opened the doors to his restaurant, El Molin, in 1990 in Fiemme Valley with the ambition to realize his philosophy, to reach people in order to overcome time and become a tradition.
The constant research in the Trentino region, the collaboration with local producers as well as the lessons learnt from great craftsmen and colleagues, have helped El Molin evolve.
Tradition was and still is the reason to grow, expand and perfect. Just as before, this antique mill is the birthplace of creativity
Below the biography compiled by Samuele Amadori, Rai TGR journalist, who in his leisure time deals with food and wine, described Alessandro Gilmozzi for Identità Golose. Through his words we can get a better understanding of this culinary artist, who among the best Italian chefsrepresents mountain cuisine in all of its expressiveness.
“A family that has been running restaurants for generations in the Fiemme Valley.
A culture gained from the Corte of names like Adrià e Ducasse. A humbleness that is rarely encountered by those who traverse Italian kitchens. Alessandro Gilmozzi, born in 1965, is defined as one of the most interesting chefs in Italy, without using any tricks or deception. Each innovation brought to his menu is the result of meticulous scientific research.
Because he knows that people who are use to the antique traditions of Trentino will not accept any shortcuts, especially if the direction is that of innovation.
In Cavalese, the restaurant El Molin, for more than twenty years has been experimenting with the use of unusual ingredients such as Lichens, or the perfection of antique recipes that might have lost some of their fascination. Its cuisine smells of smokiness, of herbs from the woods, of hunting lodges. It is like a rock placed in-between the cold waters that run in the Fiemme Valley, honored by the experience and by a delicate palate of great sensibility. It was not easy to rise above hundreds of other similar restaurants in Trentino, of replicated menus.
Yet, Gilmozzi excelled, and without using any marketing or communication techniques unlike his competitors. Using only solid preparation and craftsmanship. Because esteemed flavors never end up in obscurity, just to name a few simple examples, I am speaking of speck that is always made by him; or juniper butter from Malga; or the many mountain herbs that he had studied and collects daily, day after day, season after season.
These skills are combined with specific modern cooking techniques that have been rarely used with artic char or deer.
Cooking at low temperatures, the creative use of smoke, the approach between primitive fire, wood and meat. Techniques that are taught by the “oh so fashionable” Scandinavian chefs of today. Oh, one other thing, Gilmozzi is also a good entrepreneur. A Pizzeria, a wine bar, a hotel and even a project, but we cannot say more than it involves foreign countries. Trentino, yes, but for export.
In the picturesque Fiemme Valley, Alessandro presents his mountain cuisine, that he himself likes to call dolomitic, as it is profoundly connected to the territory of the Dolomites.
Sticking to his roots while continuing the search for innovation. Tradition is dynamic, it does not stop but it evolves continuously.
With his cuisine, full of love and respect for the mountains and the gifts they offer every single day, Alessandro does not want to stop astonishing and confirms himself as being one of the best chefs in the Gastronomic Italian panorama.
“Only the forms and the people who can make an incisive mark prevail over time and become tradition.”